Tuesday, November 17, 2009

How can I fix wall paint?

I don't know anything about painting and I just paint a room. I thought I followed instructions by "cutting in" all the corners ceiling and baseboards on all the walls then I went back and rolled what was left. All the corners, baseboards, windows, etc now have a heavier line of paint. I think I should have rolled one wall then did the cut-in, then rolled the next wall, etc.





Is there any way I can fix the visible heavy paint lines from where I cut-in? I am guessing it dried enough before I rolled since I cut in the whole room so it stands out. Would anther coat make it worse?

How can I fix wall paint?
you are exactly right. the reason you have a headband is because you let the paint dry before you rolled so you got this headband look. You are going to have to re-roll the walls again going as close to without touching the bands, go as close to the ceiling as you can with the roller and the same for the trim. don't cut in again and all will blend it when it's dry. good luck
Reply:I'd say if you painted over it within about 6 hours then there is the possibility that all of the prior was not dried yet. At this point, the logical thing to do is exactly what was suggested above. Let it dry so you can truly be sure what the final color / shade will be - and be sure you have adequate light when you are looking at it ... No Shadows.





Worst case scenario you will see a difference between the two after it dries.


solution: apply a second coat to the surfaces needing the second coat to match those areas that have already received a second coat.
Reply:Cut once roll twice
Reply:Be sure to let it completely dry so you can tell the final color, as it tends to darken as it dries and may be fine. Once it's completely dry, try putting on another coat of paint. You probably just got a thicker coat on where you cut in, and the rest isn't heavy enough to completely cover the old paint.
Reply:One of your respondents said cut in once and roll twice. Not exactly. Cutting in, done with a brush, should be done TWICE. But if you're doing it without tape, that can take agonizingly L O N G. So the deal is, take the extra time to tape off the areas so you can brush paint on EVENLY. If you're NOT using tape (or some other way of protecting surfaces which either don't get paint or do get it in a different color or sheen) the paint tends to pile up near the tip of the brush and you spend as much time trying to smooth it mechanically as you do just applying a color. The tape eliminates that problem -you just brush evenly and quickly -and TWICE. Use 2" or wider painter's tape so you can move along quickly. Exception: no need to tape areas that can't be seen -such as the tops of window trim -who cares what happens there?





So now, with two even coats at the trim, in the corners, along base board and ceiling, etc., you can come back and roll the wall -TWICE.





But guess what? The effect you noted may STILL BE THERE! Why? Four reasons:





1. The paint, while dry to the touch, is still not really dry. As it does dry -over a week or so- the difference will fade somewhat.





2. Surface texture: The cut-in area has brush strokes in it; the walls are stippled. Accordingly, they reflect light somehwat differently. Since your eye naturally follows the room geometry (angles, corners, etc.) and since the wall is interrupted by furnishings, pictures, windows, etc., the effect is somewhat magnified. Again, drying will take some of that away. However, when rolling the walls, get as close to the cut in area as you can to reduce the paint stroke appearance.





3. Shadows you didn't know were there. Depending on time of day, ambient light, where you are and the direction of your view, there will be shadows in any place that the cut-in area is near a return (meaning a surface the runs at right angles to the painted area -such as ceiling and wall.) And THAT darkens the cut-in area. You didn't see it before because the wall was dirty. I don't mean filthy, just years of dust and common grime in the air, which softens the effect. Take a bare light up a ladder with you and get it close to an area where the darkness seems very noticeable -and watch the effect disappear (most of it, anyway). Early in my painting "career," I had a spot I repainted 3 or 4 times to get rid of that visual difference -and it wouldn't go away. I felt certain there was something about the finish under the paint that responsible, so I took a work light up close -and poof! The problem went away.





4. Psychology: Really. Since YOU know you painted the room, you know where any little problem areas were located and you spend time looking at and enjoying not just the new look -but a job well done. And therefore, you are very sensitive and aggressive visually, so your brain is grabbing any variances and "dragging them downtown for questioning." In a few days or so, you'll begin to accomodate it. And the wall and cut-in areas will blend together, and you'll find peace and joy.





The end.


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